What over the counter acne treatment should I use?

By Dr Magnus Lynch
MA(Cantab) DPhil(Oxon) MRCS FRCP
Consultant Dermatologist & Dermatological Surgeon

Over the counter acne treatments are available to buy without a prescription. Most of these products will contain benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, retinol or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) either alone or in combination. They can be helpful for mild acne, but will not work in all cases and are unlikely to help moderate or severe acne.

Benzoyl peroxide kills bacteria that contribute the formation of acne lesions and helps to prevent excessive skin cell division and clogging of hair follicles with dead skin cells. It is available in concentrations of 2.5-10%. It can cause dryness and irritation of the skin particularly when high concentrations are used.

Salicylic acid removes dead skin cells preventing the openings of hair follicles ‘pores’ from becoming blocked.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) encompass a wide range of products but the most widely used are glycolic acids and lactic acids. AHAs help to remove dead skin cells and reduce inflammation.

Retinol is chemically related to topical retinoids, which are frequently used prescription products for acne. It works in a similar manner reducing the production of sebum and regulating the division of skin cells (keratinocytes) to reduce blockage of hair follicles.

All of these products can be irritant particularly if you have sensitive skin. If you have mild acne and have not used any topical treatment then a product containing a low concentration of benzoyl peroxide is generally a good starting point. If over the counter products are proving ineffective it is usually better to see a doctor in order to obtain more effective prescription topical or oral treatment.

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About Dr Magnus Lynch

I am a London-based Consultant Dermatologist and Dermatological Surgeon. My NHS practice is at Guy's Hospital and is focused on Mohs micrographic surgery and the treatment of complex skin cancers. My private practice additionally focuses on laser treatments, regenerative dermatology, rosacea, acne, pigmentation and scarring. I have particular expertise in the diagnosis and treatment of skin cancer, including minimally-invasive techniques, Mohs micrographic surgery, and facial reconstructive surgery. I studied at the Universities of Cambridge and Oxford, and completed my dermatology training and Mohs fellowship at the prestigious St John’s Institute of Dermatology. I graduated from medical school in 2003 and have worked exclusively in Dermatology since 2012.

I lead a research team at King’s College London investigating the molecular biology of skin cancer and skin cancer diagnostics, and I constantly aim to translate the latest findings into better patient care. You can learn more about my Research.

In recent years I have been involved in Media Appearances, including the Channel 5 series 'Skin A&E', where I perform skin surgeries and treat various skin conditions. Filming for the next series has recently completed and the series will be released later in 2025.

How I can help

I consult with private patients at several well-appointed and conveniently located sites across central London:

• London Bridge Hospital: Conveniently situated within The Shard, next to London Bridge station.
• Skin55 Ltd: Located at 55 Harley Street, this beautiful Edwardian building houses one of the largest private dermatology facilities in the UK with a comprehensive laser suite.
• OneWelbeck: Located close to Bond Street underground station. Mohs surgery, lasers, and other skin surgeries are performed in the state-of-the-art surgical suite here.

A new consultation is £250, a follow up consultation is £220. For more information on fees, please visit Prices.