Is it acne scarring or just texture?

The question that matters is whether the surface is uneven because the dermis has lost volume, which constitutes scarring, or because of irregularity, enlarged pores and superficial roughness. Textural change can be caused by acne and acne scarring. Many patients have both.

A helpful test is to stretch the skin gently between two fingers. Enlarged pores and surface roughness flatten out and largely disappear, whereas a true atrophic scar persists. The second test is light. Scarring casts a shadow under directional light from above because it has depth, whereas texture and pores scatter light rather than casting a discrete shadow. This is also why lighting has such a marked effect upon how bad scarring appears.

Pore size is influenced by sebaceous gland activity, by ageing and by sun damage, and enlarged pores across the cheeks and nose can closely resemble fine scarring in a mirror. They are not scars, they have not lost dermal volume, and they will not respond well to laser treatments.

Textural changes can respond to topical retinoids used consistently over months, and there may be some benefit to resurfacing with non-ablative or fractional ablative laser. Scarring requires the contour to be addressed first, with subcision for tethered scars, TCA CROSS for ice pick scars and punch excision for a small number of deep ones.

Generally it is worth having this assessed properly rather than guessing from photographs, since the two problems appear similar in a mirror and are treated entirely differently. In person it is usually possible to establish whether scars are tethered, which cannot be assessed alone and which alters the whole plan.

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Dr Magnus Lynch

About Dr Magnus Lynch

MA(Cantab) DPhil(Oxon) MRCS FRCP

I am a London-based Consultant Dermatologist and Dermatological Surgeon. I am highly experienced in skin cancer diagnosis, Mohs micrographic surgery, acne, rosacea, acne scarring and laser treatments. I studied at the Universities of Cambridge and Oxford, and completed my dermatology training and Mohs fellowship at the prestigious St John's Institute of Dermatology. I graduated from medical school in 2003 and have worked exclusively in Dermatology since 2012.

I lead a research team at King's College London investigating the molecular biology of skin cancer. In recent years I have been involved in Media Appearances, including the Channel 5 series 'Skin A&E', where I perform skin surgeries and treat various skin conditions.

My NHS practice is at Guy's Hospital. I consult with private patients at OneWelbeck (near to Bond Street station) and on Harley Street. Book A Consultation.

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I am available for consultations at several sites in Central London. Some conditions such as acne and rosacea are also suitable for a remote consultation with photos. Either enter your details and my practice management team will contact you within 1 working day or use instant online booking. Alternatively you can call or email directly. Please note that not all open clinic slots are visible on the instant booking link.

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